Nestled in the heart of the Lake District, the Bowder Stone (or Bowderstone) stands as a breathtaking natural wonder and a must-visit for anyone exploring Borrowdale. This colossal green-grey andesite lava boulder, measuring 18 meters long, 8.18 meters high, and weighing approximately 1,273 tonnes, is a testament to the raw power of nature. Managed by the National Trust, it’s not just a geological curiosity but a popular attraction that has drawn photographers, climbers, and curious travelers for centuries. Let’s dive into the story of this remarkable stone, its origins, and why it’s worth a visit.
A Geological Giant with a Dramatic Origin
The Bowder Stone’s story begins around 452 million years ago during the Ordovician period, as part of the Borrowdale Volcanic Group. Its massive size and peculiar position—seemingly balanced on its narrowest edge—have sparked debates about how it ended up in its current spot below Bowder Crag. The most widely accepted theory, supported by geologist Dr. Alan Smith, is that it tumbled down from the crag above in a massive rockfall. The boulder’s rock type and vertical joint planes match those of Bowder Crag perfectly, confirming its origin. This rockfall, likely triggered by freeze-thaw cycles during the late Pleistocene (13,500–10,000 years ago), sent thousands of fragments cascading down the slope, with the Bowder Stone landing as the largest survivor.
Other theories, like the idea of it being an erratic boulder moved by glaciers or deposited by melting ice, don’t hold up. The stone shows no signs of glacial abrasion, and its rock type doesn’t match those from upper Borrowdale. Its stable, symmetrical balance defies logic at first glance, but its sheer weight ensures it stays put—unless another boulder of its size crashes into it, which seems unlikely given the lack of similar falls from the crag.
Getting to the Bowder Stone
Located about a mile south of Grange on the B5289 Borrowdale road, which runs from Keswick through Borrowdale to Buttermere via Honister Pass, the Bowder Stone is easy to reach. A tiered car park (with space for about 60 vehicles) is available, though it can fill up quickly during peak times. National Trust members park for free by scanning their card, while others use the pay-and-display machine. The single-track road to the car park is steep and a bit bumpy, so drive cautiously, especially on busy days.
From the lower tier of the car park, a gravel path leads to the boulder, passing the abandoned Quay Foot Quarry, where green slate was once mined for 19th-century Keswick buildings. The path has a gentle incline before leveling out, making the stone just a short stroll away. The surrounding scenery, with the fells of the Lake District as a backdrop, adds to the allure.
A Name Steeped in History
The name “Bowder” likely comes from a dialectal twist on “boulder,” rooted in Middle English “ston” and Old English “stān.” Historical records from the 18th century show variations like Bowders Stone (1751), Bowthor Stone (1774), and even Powder-Stone (1789). The National Trust uses “Bowderstone” on signs, though their website sticks with “Bowder Stone.” Another theory links the name to Norse mythology’s Baldr, son of Odin, adding a touch of mystique to this ancient rock.
Joseph Pocklington: The Eccentric Visionary
The Bowder Stone’s rise as a tourist hotspot owes much to Joseph Pocklington (1736–1817), a wealthy eccentric who left his mark on the Lake District. After falling in love with Keswick in the 1770s, Pocklington settled in the area, building a mansion on Vicar’s Island (now Derwent Island) and controversially naming it after himself. His additions, like a mock Druid stone circle and a fort, earned him the nickname “King Pocky” and the scorn of poets like Coleridge. Undeterred, he built more properties, including Barrow House (now an independent hostel) and enhanced a 37-meter waterfall for scenic appeal.
In 1798, Pocklington bought the land around the Bowder Stone and turned it into an attraction. He cleared smaller rocks, built a cottage for a guide, and added a ladder for visitors to climb the boulder and take in the valley views. The cottage, initially home to a mysterious lady guide, later housed colorful characters like John Raven, who entertained visitors with facts about the stone, and Mary Caradus (later Thompson), known for her hospitality. By the 1920s, the cottage served as a tearoom and souvenir shop, and today, it’s a climbing bothy leased to the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club by the National Trust.
A Climber’s Paradise
Beyond its geological and historical significance, the Bowder Stone is a playground for climbers. Its eastern side, facing the path, is marked with chalk from bouldering enthusiasts tackling its challenging cracks and holds. Watching climbers navigate the boulder’s vertical face is a spectacle, especially for those of us who can’t imagine clinging to rock with just fingertips and grit. Padded mats cushion inevitable falls, making it a safe spot for practice.
Why Visit the Bowder Stone?
The Bowder Stone is more than just a big rock—it’s a window into the Lake District’s ancient past, a testament to nature’s power, and a quirky piece of human history thanks to Pocklington’s vision. Whether you’re a geology buff, a climber, or simply someone who loves a good view, this site has something for everyone. The short walk, stunning surroundings, and the boulder’s sheer scale make it an unforgettable stop on any Lake District adventure.
So, next time you’re driving through Borrowdale, pull into the car park, take the gravel path, and marvel at this ancient giant. Just don’t forget to scan your National Trust card or grab a parking ticket—and maybe bring a camera to capture the magic of the Bowder Stone.
Lake District Walks | The Bowder Stone in Borrowdale (a micro-expedition)
