The Wily Winemakers of Prohibition: How “Grape Bricks” Kept America’s Wine Culture Alive – A Deeper Dive
Imagine a time when your favorite Cabernet or crisp Chardonnay was an outlaw, its very existence forbidden by law. This was the reality in the United States during Prohibition (1920–1933), a thirteen-year period when the production, sale, and transportation of alcoholic beverages were banned nationwide by the 18th Amendment and enforced by the Volstead Act. While many industries suffered, America’s winemakers, with their ingenious spirit, found a remarkably clever and surprisingly brazen loophole: the “grape brick.”
These weren’t just any bricks; they were blocks of highly concentrated grape juice, dried and pressed into solid form. And here’s where the genius truly lay: grape bricks were legally sold for “home use.” The reasoning? They were marketed for making non-alcoholic grape juice, jellies, or even grape ketchup and fudge!
The “Don’t Do This!” Instruction Manual
The brilliant subversion was in the tongue-in-cheek “warnings” printed right on the labels. These weren’t subtle hints; they were practically step-by-step instructions for turning the concentrated grape juice back into wine. Imagine buying a block of dried grapes and reading something like:
“WARNING: After dissolving the brick in a gallon of water, do not place the liquid in a jug away in the cupboard for twenty-one days, because then it would turn into wine.”
Or:
“ATTENTION: If this product is allowed to stand in a warm place for an extended period, it may turn into an intoxicating beverage. Handle with care. To prevent fermentation, add 1/10% Benzoate of Soda.”
These seemingly cautionary notes were, in reality, thinly veiled, precise instructions for home winemakers. The manufacturers couldn’t tell you to make wine, but they could “warn” you about the “unintended” consequences if their product was handled “improperly.”
The Loophole: Personal Consumption
The key legal loophole that made this possible was Section 29 of the Volstead Act. While it prohibited the commercial manufacture and sale of alcohol, it did not explicitly outlaw the private ownership or consumption of alcohol. Crucially, it allowed for the home production of up to 200 gallons of “fruit juice” annually for personal consumption. This meant that as long as you weren’t selling your homemade vino, you were technically within the bounds of the federal law (though local laws could be stricter).
The Rise of Vine-Glo and the Alicante Bouschet
Thousands upon thousands of these grape bricks, often marketed under brand names like Vine-Glo (produced by Fruit Industries Ltd., a front for the California Vineyardist Association), were sold across the country. They came in various “wine-flavored” varieties, mimicking the popular choices available before Prohibition, such as Port, Virginia Dare, Muscatel, Angelica, Tokay, Sauterne, Riesling, Claret, and Burgundy.
A particular grape variety that thrived during this era was the Alicante Bouschet. Known for its thick skin and dark flesh (a “teinturier” grape, meaning “dyer” in French, as its juice is also colored, unlike most red grapes), it was hardy enough to survive long, cross-country train journeys in its brick form. It also offered high yields, making it economically viable for growers. While the wine produced from these bricks wasn’t exactly fine dining quality – often described as harsh and rough – it served its purpose for a thirsty nation.
A Lucrative, Controversial Business
The “grape brick” business became incredibly lucrative. Some estimates suggest that California vineyards expanded by as much as 700% during Prohibition, entirely thanks to this workaround, with over 30 million gallons of “juice” accidentally fermenting into wine each year by 1925. The price of grapes skyrocketed, making fortunes for those vineyard owners who chose to stick it out rather than rip out their vines.
This success wasn’t without its challenges or controversies. The “drys” (prohibitionists) vehemently protested the sale of grape bricks. There were legal battles, and even rumors of mob involvement as organized crime saw grape bricks as a new revenue stream, hijacking shipments or setting up fake juice companies as fronts for wine distribution.
Despite the controversies and the resulting focus on quantity over quality (which would take decades for the American wine industry to recover from), the tale of the grape brick is a fascinating testament to human ingenuity and adaptability in the face of restrictive laws. It ensured that a vital part of American culinary and social culture – winemaking and wine appreciation – didn’t completely disappear. It fostered a clandestine but widespread network of amateur vintners, keeping the knowledge and traditions alive through the “dry” years, a truly bubbly and defiant footnote in American history.
